Hey Hub-have a question for ya-What, if any, effect would a warped filter element cover have on engine performance?Thanks!I also reinstalled a new sensor-just out of curiousity-how does it know to "reset" or whatever it does when installed?Does it take instructions from the ECU?And will I need to ride it to have it adjust correctly?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/25/2009 @ 1:44 PM *

Well HUB-you're gonna say "I told ya so" probably.Got the same code after installing the new sensor.Had to fully open the throttle,crank her,then she fired-yet idled like you know what.There's virtually NO difference since installing that new sensor.Go ahead-make my day.What now?????(I'm all ears).Ya think I'm not getting enough voltage OR maybe the line somewhere is shorting?Is it possible when I reinstalled the throttlebodies(I was VERY careful not to hit or force anything)that I missed a connector under there?God-will I have to take all that stuff off again?Geez.Is there a fuse for that line there?................................THIS is what I've got-On the voltmeter-set to AC(10),the needle goes to just a smidgen above 4(which is a BLACK NUMBER)just above THE RED SCALE-(ac volts)(when key is turned ON).But the 4 is BLACK-NOT RED like the AC volts numbers.It does not move from the "4" number as I crank the motor.When I remove the black probe from the chassis ground,the needle goes to zero(natch).The red probe I had in the connector lead coming from the main harness.I don't know what the little "dB"is-it's the very bottom scale of the red ac volts there-so it's reading right around...looks like it's maybe +14(it's between the +12 and the +16 readings.I really don't know how to read this.But it's not moving from the"4" mark while cranking.(stays the same whether cranking or just reading with key ON).I opened her back up and checked everything under the frame there-all connections were secure-nothing looked kinked,burned,or frayed anywhere.Fuel line looked good coming into the fuel rail-no kinks-under the tank,the main fuel line was not being pinched.Fuses were okay right there by the ECU unit.Something seems wrong with the electrical-as far as that reading goes?Seems like it ought to change there in the plug when she's cranking?Not just a steady voltage going to the sensor.(though maybe that's exactly what it's supposed to do?)It certainly wasn't reading 2.8 that I could see.If I did this right?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/26/2009 @ 2:32 AM *

Ya-we're talkin about the same puppy.Wire color codes the same.Pages-yes-the same.I don't know what you mean by junction box.The sensor wire at the plug goes on into the main harness,which goes back to the ECU.There is no J-box in the line(that I can see).Only the fuses next to the ECU.The wires have that large plug bank going into the ECU.All the plugs for the injectors,sensors,and all those are taped and connected into the main harness.I'm not seein any "breaks"in the lines(like fuse boxes or any of that).Only with the headlamp/horn/turn signals am I seeing a break-fuse box.Doesn't the sensor hot lead go all the way back uninterrupted to the ECU?I'm thinkin there's a short to ground in that line somewhere.But I don't know how to find it as per the book.I would think you could run the continuity from the plug at the ECU,and check the wire along it's length up to the connector there.Can I?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/26/2009 @ 12:34 PM *

Okay-I did check continuity over BOTH wires from plug side at ECU(going to sensor)and plug side(coming from connector side before the sensor)Both read 14,000 ohms.And I measured as you said AC VOLTS at the plug where sensor meets connector(sensor unplugged)...the voltage there was 4 volts-and NO drop or increase during cranking.Your thoughts?Was not able to start the engine.(FI error 23).(it says to measure with engine running).Error would not allow her to start(?)After I reconnected the sensor,cranked a few times with the FI error flashing,then fired and ran.Also went through the cold cycle.and when returning to set idle,it was idling up and down in a rhythmic fashion.(perhaps a surge?).Also,after I got the idle going"kind of"smooth(not right though),when blipping the throttle,she dropped back to ABOVE the set idle(as before),then settled back to the set idle.(as before).But I did notice(as did my mechanic before)that when she's idling,if you close the throttle PAST the stop with the grip,she drops slightly more-not much,but some(he said "maybe" the cables had been stretched or damaged somehow) .Yet all my throttle plays are there-she's not pulling open at idle.When I checked my cables after this began to happen,I tried to lube them with one of those pressure lubers.It really didn't fit our throttle cable design unfortunately,but I did notice at the throttle plate end ,the cables(both) had one or two strands each that had broken.They were up inside the casing,so you wouldn't notice them by just looking.I worked the cable from throttle grip(removed from grip) and other end back and forth(removed from actuator) -I couldn't detect any hanging in the cable.Do you think it's just possible that somehow those one or two strands are rubbing "just enough" to cause friction in the return action?The strands weren't bent or kinked like they had jammed in the casing,but they were broken.If the throttle is closed,and the cables are adjusted correctly,HOW can CLOSING THE GRIP past the stop cause MORE closing on the throttlebodies(assuming they're already fully closed at closed throttle?)(sorry for repeating myself about the meter reading there)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/26/2009 @ 11:43 PM *

Well I decided to go with my original mechanic-he's gonna do a complete check on er-compression,valves-and take it from there.I KNOW he knows what he's doing.Gonna get this sorted out.I feel better already-and thanks HUB for all the help-I know I'm a pain-sometimes I don't always listen.Your advice was(and is) appreciated-just want ya to know that.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/27/2009 @ 1:45 PM *